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GB/T 26380-2022: Textiles - Terminology for silk
Status: Valid GB/T 26380: Evolution and historical versions
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Textiles - Terminology for silk
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GB/T 26380-2022
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| GB/T 26380-2011 | English | 1359 |
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Textile -- Terminology for silk
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GB/T 26380-2011
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PDF similar to GB/T 26380-2022
Standard similar to GB/T 26380-2022 FZ/T 50015 GB/T 44214 GB/T 15268 Basic data | Standard ID | GB/T 26380-2022 (GB/T26380-2022) | | Description (Translated English) | Textiles - Terminology for silk | | Sector / Industry | National Standard (Recommended) | | Classification of Chinese Standard | W40 | | Word Count Estimation | 38,390 | | Issuing agency(ies) | State Administration for Market Regulation, China National Standardization Administration | GB/T 26380-2022: Textiles - Terminology for silk---This is a DRAFT version for illustration, not a final translation. Full copy of true-PDF in English version (including equations, symbols, images, flow-chart, tables, and figures etc.) will be manually/carefully translated upon your order.
ICS 59.080.01
CCS W40
National Standards of People's Republic of China
Replacing GB/T 26380-2011
textile silk term
State Administration for Market Regulation
Released by the National Standardization Management Committee
1 Scope
This document defines terms, definitions or descriptions commonly used in the silk industry, trade and related fields.
This document applies to silk product design, production, science and technology, teaching, trade, testing, management and related fields.
2 Normative references
This document has no normative references.
3.3.8
tussahlongwaste tussahlongwaste
Tussah silkworm cocoons are obtained in the process of cocoon removal before reeling, and are processed into bundles of fibers.
Note. According to the method of boiling and bleaching tussah silkworm cocoons, the type of medicine used, the silk reeling method and the type of raw material cocoons, it can be divided into water reeling large handles and potion large pulleys.
3.3.12
Silkworm cotton ball mulberrysilktop
The combed cotton sheet processed by circular combing is stretched and processed into a spherical body wound by a fixed-length and fixed-weight cotton tape.
3.3.13
Falling cotton silknoil
The short fibers that fall after combing and extracting the fine cotton are combed by a combing machine.
Note. The nodding of circular combing machine is called circular combing noil; the nodding of straight combing machine is called combing nodding.
4.1
silk fabric silkfabric
silk
Various fabrics woven with silk, chemical fiber filaments or their main raw materials.
Note. According to the organization, processing technology, texture and appearance of the fabric, it can be divided into fourteen types. spinning, crepe, satin, damask, yarn, Luo, velvet, brocade, silk, woolen, Ge, silk, silk, silk, etc.
category.
4.1.1
Mulberry silk fabric mulberrysilkfabric
Silk fabrics woven purely with mulberry silk or interwoven with other yarns.
4.1.1.1
The warp and weft are all made of silk fabrics woven from mulberry silk.
Note. Generally, crepe de chine, plain crepe satin, electric spinning, etc. are typical varieties.
4.1.1.1.1
crepe de chine
Plain weave is adopted, with weakly twisted or untwisted mulberry silk as the warp, and two left-twisted and two right-twisted strong-twisted mulberry silks as wefts for alternate weaving.
Pure mulberry silk fabric with even crepe effect.
4.1.1.1.2
Plain crepe satin plaincrepesatin
Using weakly twisted or untwisted mulberry silk as the warp, two left-twisted and two right-twisted mulberry silks are used as wefts for alternate weaving.
A fabric with a good sheen on the rear side and a pronounced crepe effect on the other side.
4.1.1.1.3
Sangbo satin sangbocrepebrocade
The mulberry silk jacquard crepe fabric is woven with weakly twisted or untwisted mulberry silk as the warp and crepe linear composite twisted silk as the weft.
4.1.1.1.4
Electric spinning habotai
It adopts plain weave, and the warp and weft are all made of weakly twisted or untwisted mulberry silk.
4.1.1.1.5
crepe crepe crinklefabric
A silk fabric woven with mulberry silk as the warp and unidirectional strong-twisted mulberry silk as the weft, mainly using plain weave.
double palace silk
The warp and weft are all or part of the fabric made of double palace silk.
4.1.8
Silk fabrics purely woven or interwoven with regenerated cellulose filaments as the main raw material.
4.1.8.1
Fuchunfang fu-chunrayontaffeta
The warp is regenerated cellulose filament and the weft is regenerated cellulose spun yarn interwoven into plain weave.
4.1.8.2
beautiful silk mei-liliningtwil
Silk fabrics with twill weave or twill weave, made of pure regenerated cellulose fiber filaments.
4.1.9
Purely woven or interwoven silk fabrics made of synthetic fiber filaments as the main raw material..
4.1.9.2
peach skin peachskinlikefabric
The warp or weft is woven with fine-denier polyester silk, and has been sanded, sand-washed, etc., and the silk surface has an obvious fluffy feel.
4.1.9.3
suede suedenap
The warp or weft is woven with water-soluble synthetic fibers such as sea-island silk, and has been sanded, sand-washed, etc., and the silk surface has an obvious suede feel.
fabric.
4.1.9.4
Washed velvet washedvelvetfabric
The warp and weft are woven with fine denier polyester yarns with different shrinkage rates, and have a velvet feel without sanding.
Note. fine denier refers to the chemical fiber linear density in the range of 0.55dtex~1.44dtex (0.5d~1.3d).
4.1.9.5
Polyestertaffeta
The warp and weft are made of polyester silk, which is a plain weave silk fabric with high warp and weft density.
4.1.10
It is a silk fabric with elasticity through processing technology or adding elastic fibers with mulberry silk as the main raw material.
4.1.11
Mulberry silk spandex elastic silk fabric mulberrysilk/spandexelasticfabric
It is an elastic silk fabric made of mulberry silk as the main raw material and containing spandex fiber.
4.1.12
Silk decorative fabric decorativesilkfabric
Silk is the main raw material used as a decorative silk fabric.
4.1.13
silk quilt cover jacquardquiltcover
Single-width silk fabric used as the surface layer of quilts or quilts, mainly with heavy weft weaving, pattern layout with single flower in the center, symmetrical flowers on both sides and four corners
flower composition.
4.1.14
The warp and weft yarns are untwisted or weakly twisted, dyed first and then woven, with warp satin or twill as the ground, weft flowering, and jacquard fabrics with more than three colors.
4.1.14.1
brocade satinbrocade
The warp is made of mulberry silk or viscose filament, and the weft is made of dyed viscose filament of different colors or gold and silver yarn-dyed weft triple brocade yarn.
fabric.
Note. It can be divided into three categories. mulberry silk brocade, viscose filament brocade and mulberry silk and viscose filament interwoven brocade.
4.1.14.2
antique satin soochowbrocade
The warp and weft materials are exactly the same as those of brocade, the structure and density of warp and weft are slightly thinner than that of brocade, and the brocade silk fabric is mostly patterned all over the floor.
4.1.15
velvet fabric silkvelvetfabric
The upper and lower layers of fabric are interwoven with mulberry silk, polyester yarn, nylon yarn, etc. and viscose filament. After cutting and finishing, the surface of the fabric has a towering
Flowers and plain silk fabrics with plush.
4.1.15.1
Golden velvet pleuche
It is a warped silk fabric produced by double-layer weaving method, which is interwoven with silk and viscose filament as raw materials, and the ground structure is plain weave.
4.1.15.2
georgette velvet
Using strong twisted mulberry silk as the bottom warp and weft, the ground texture is 1/2 warp heavy plain weave, viscose filament is used as the down warp, and the warp produced by double-layer weaving method
Fleece fabric.
4.1.15.3
Burnt-outvelvet burnt-outvelvet
Use mulberry silk, nylon silk or polyester silk as the bottom warp and bottom weft, and use viscose filament as the velvet warp. After cutting velvet and burnt-out treatment, the fabric surface has a
Fluffy fabric.
4.1.15.4
velvet
Using mulberry silk as the raw material, weave pile rods into the twill weave to form pile loops, single-layer warp pile with pile loops or fluff on the surface
4.2.1.1
One or more mulberry silks are fed to the working needles of the knitting machine along the horizontal direction of the fabric, bent in order to form loops, and connected with each other to form a circle.
Tubular knitted fabric.
4.2.1.2
A group or groups of mulberry silks are fed into the working needles of the knitting machine along the longitudinal direction of the fabric, woven into loops and connected with each other to form a knitted fabric.
4.3
Silk fabrics or products with a long history, profound cultural background, traditional classics or representativeness.
4.3.1
Yunbrocade
Yarn-dyed jacquard brocade silk fabrics with pure mulberry silk or mulberry silk as warp, glossy viscose filament dyed silk and (or) gold and silver silk as weft. use
Large-scale traditional Hualou looms are hand-woven by two people who go upstairs and downstairs. Adopt "cross-stitch knotting, warp and weft breaking, flower-digging disk weaving, gold-and-silver weaving" and so on
craft.
Note. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Nanjing specially set up the Jiangning Weaving Bureau to weave Yunjin for the needs of the court. It is divided into three categories. "Kujin, Kudu and Zhuanghua".
4.3.2
Song Brocade
Two groups of dyed mulberry silk (or one group of raw silk) are used as warp threads, and three or more groups of dyed mulberry silk, dyed viscose filament or other dyed
Fiber dyed silk (yarn) is used as the weft thread, a yarn-dyed jacquard brocade with three twill weaves as the basic weave and a double-weft structure with colorful warp and weft patterns.
Note. Originated in Suzhou. It is generally used for book and painting frame mounting. It is divided into three categories. "big brocade, small brocade and box brocade".
4.3.3
Shu Brocade
Yarn-dyed jacquard brocade silk fabrics with multi-colored warp or colored weft, which use silkworm colored silk or viscose filament colored silk as the main raw material.
Note. It is a colorful brocade with national characteristics and local style produced in ancient Shu County (now Sichuan Province). It is divided into two categories. "Jingjin" and "Weijin".
4.3.4
Zhuang Brocade
Jacquard brocade silk fabrics that use cotton or hemp thread as the warp and mulberry silk as the weft.
Note 1.Zhuang traditional brocade crafts.
Note 2.Modern Zhuang brocade uses dyed mulberry silk, viscose filament and gold and silver leather as raw materials, and is woven with a jacquard machine, with weft flowers appearing on the satin weave ground.
4.3.5
Kesi kossufabric; Kesi
Kesi
Using mulberry silk as the warp thread, mulberry silk or other silk thread as the weft thread, it is woven with plain weave weaving through the warp and weft, and the weft direction is manually dug according to the outline of the pattern
Weaving, the fabric with the same pattern on the front and back formed by winding and knotting.
4.3.6
weavedphotograph
Silkworm-colored silk or silkworm-colored silk and viscose filament are interwoven, and the pattern is a jacquard silk fabric with the theme of portraits, landscapes, Chinese paintings, etc.
Note. There are two kinds of black and white image scene and color image scene.
4.3.7
It is a mulberry silk jacquard skein or silk fabric that is processed by traditional handicrafts such as river mud and drying after being impregnated with citronella liquid.
Note. It is divided into two types. scorpion yarn and scorpion silk. Ranunculus yarn is also called Xiangyun yarn, and Ranunculus silk is also called copy silk.
4.3.8
Hangfang Hangzhouhabotai
A spun silk fabric woven from raw silk or earthen silk.
4.3.9
Hangzhousilkleno
Using mulberry silk as raw material, weft silk is impregnated, plain weave and Luo weave combined with water weaving, straight or horizontal strip yarn with equidistant regularity
4.3.10
Atelissilk
Shukura
The ancient warp tie dyeing process in our country is used to tie knots on the warp yarns for dyeing according to the requirements of the pattern. After the tie is completed, the layers are dyed,
Warping and silk weaving. The patterns on the silk surface form tassel-like and wooden comb patterns along the warp.
Note. silk is used for the traditional characteristics of Xinjiang Uyghur women.
4.3.11
Suembroidery
With the Suzhou area as the center of the production area, dyed pure mulberry silk (including panjin) is used as the embroidery thread, and the Suzhou embroidery needle method is applied and the needle is moved by hand.
Silk fabrics, mulberry silk viscose filament interwoven fabrics and other base materials are embroidered into single and double-sided ornamental and practical products with special artistic effects.
4.3.12
Shuembroidery
With the Chengdu area of Sichuan as the center of the production area, silk thread is used to embroider patterns on silk or other fabrics, with bright and delicate colors and stitches.
Exquisite and delicate embroidery.
4.3.13
Xiangembroidery
Taking Changsha, Hunan Province as the center of the production area, it is embroidered with silk, satin, transparent yarn and silk threads and velvet threads of various colors.
Brightly colored embroidery.
4.3.14
Yueembroidery
Guangdong embroidery centered on Chaozhou and Guangzhou, the general term for Guangzhou embroidery (Guangxiu) and Chaozhou embroidery (Chaozhou embroidery).
Note. The composition of Cantonese embroidery is dense and lively, the colors are rich and eye-catching, the needles are simple, the embroidery thread is thick and loose, the length of the stitches is uneven, and the overlap of needle patterns is slightly convex.
4.4.9
silk bag silkbag
A bag made of silk fabric as the surface material or spliced with leather and other materials.
4.4.10
silk book silkbook
Books that use weaving, printing and dyeing and other processing techniques to clearly display text and pictures on silk fabrics and use them as materials to decorate
product.
4.4.11
silk painting
With silk and silk as the main raw materials, it is a decorative painting product made by jacquard weaving, hand-painting, spray printing and other techniques.
4.4.12
silk album silkbrochure
Using weaving, printing and dyeing, printing and other processing techniques, the text and pictures are clearly displayed on the silk fabric, and this is used as the material.
Arts and crafts products in the form of "folded" binding. Each sheet is composed of two pages folded in half, which can hold two painting cores, and the number of sheets is generally an even number. book
The pages can be inlaid with stamps, coins, paper-cuts, etc. to make art forms such as stamp albums, coin albums, and paper-cut albums.
5.2.2
Raw material refiningforwastesilk
The process of removing most of the sericin and grease, wax, inorganic matter and other impurities on the raw material.
Note. According to different treatment agents and methods, it can be divided into chemical scouring and biochemical scouring.
5.2.3
Classify according to the quality of dry cotton, remove non-silk fibers, metal objects and unrefined raw materials mixed in it, and preliminarily tear the fibers
Loose process.
5.2.4
The process of spraying additives and water on the dry cotton, and balancing it for several hours at a certain temperature and relative humidity to make it penetrate evenly.
5.2.5
According to the quality of dry cotton and the quality requirements of the spun silk, several kinds of dry cotton are combined into a mixed cotton process in a certain proportion.
5.2.6
wastesilkopening
Preliminarily loosen, mix and remove some impurities from the fine-dried cotton blending ball, make a cotton sheet with a certain specification and uniform thickness, and wind it into an open cotton ball
process.
5.2.7
cut cotton filing
The process of further opening, removing impurities, and mixing sheets of cotton sheets or sheets of circular combs, cutting ultra-long fibers and making them into "rod cotton" of certain specifications.
5.2.8
stick cotton fringeofsilk
The process of winding the fixed-length and fixed-weight fiber layer between the two needle plates on the cotton cylinder to form a semi-finished product on the cotton rod.
5.2.9
The rod cotton is processed by a circular carding machine. Through fine carding, the combed fibers become straight and parallel single fibers, and impurities are removed.
The process of removing some short fibers and neps to make combed cotton sheets that meet the quality requirements.
5.2.10
Pickingdraft
Check the quality of the combed cotton sheet, remove the poorly combed bundles, knots, impurities and non-silk fibers in the combed cotton sheet, and tear the combed cotton sheet into pieces at the same time.
A small piece of a certain weight is folded into a certain width of cotton sheet.
5.2.11
combing dressing
Use a roller or flat carding machine to comb the fibers into a single fiber with a certain parallel straightness, remove some impurities, and evenly mix the fibers.
And the process of making sliver.
5.2.12
Using straight combing machine and related equipment, through the fine carding of fibers, the combed fibers become straight and parallel single fibers, and impurities are removed.
Quality, removing part of the short fibers and neps, and making a combed sliver that meets the quality requirements.
5.2.13
Instructions preparinggil
Combining and drafting the sliver, improving the uniform mixing and parallel stretching of the fibers, eliminating some hooks, and improving the uniform thickness of the sliver
The degree is beneficial to the process of combing machine processing.
5.2.14
extension spreading
A certain weight of fine cotton is made into a fixed-length cotton belt to control the number of cotton belts. At the same time, the fine cotton is evenly mixed to improve the straightening and paralleling of the fibers.
degree of process.
5.2.15
Fine cotton with cotton finedraftsmixing
According to the quality of the fine cotton and the quality requirements of the spun silk, several kinds of fine cotton are mixed in a certain proportion to form a mixed fine cotton process.
5.2.16
slivering
The process of lengthening and thinning the stretched cotton belt to make a continuous sliver, and at the same time making the fibers further parallel and straight.
5.2.17
Drawing Gil
Through the combination and drafting of multiple combed slivers, the uniformity of the thickness of the sliver is improved, and the parallel straightness of the fibers and the degree of mixing uniformity are improved.
process.
5.2.18
extension firstroving
The final sliver is further thinned, and at the same time, the carding of the needle roller is used to disperse the bundled short fibers in the sliver, which is beneficial to the process of reducing yarn defects.
5.2.19
roving
The process of further elongating and thinning the stretched sliver (or the last sliver), adding an appropriate twist to the sliver, and winding it into a suitable package.
5.3.12
pulp through beamsizing
The untwisted or weakly twisted warp yarns on the warp beam are sized to form a wear-resistant size film on the surface, and the size penetrates into the fibers to bond the single fibers to form a good
Good cohesion becomes the process of warp beam.
Note. It is divided into hot air type sizing, drying drum type sizing and combined sizing.
5.3.20
Artisan pattern patterngrid
Enlarge the designed pattern on various specifications of artisan paper, and at the same time, carry out the process within the pattern area according to the pattern, ground structure and decoration conditions.
Organization point overlay, pattern used to guide card punching work.
Note. Its vertical grid represents the warp (or needle), and the horizontal grid represents the weft (or pattern).
5.3.21
According to the intentional drawing, use the holes to roll the ups and downs of the fabric weave points on the specified cardboard, as the weaving signal of the jacquard machine, and the cardboard
Connect them in series with threads in order to form a cardboard chain that can be used to direct the straight needles of the jacquard machine to lift.
5.3.22
Indicates the composition of silk and satin raw materials, the elements of fabric weave, and the parameters of the processing process, mainly consisting of product number, product name, warp and weft raw materials, fabric weave,
It is composed of weaving elements such as width, warp and weft density, silk weight, reed number, and reed width penetration.
5.4
Use the dye formula and the setting of process parameters (such as temperature, time, pressure, speed, bath ratio, etc.) to make the silk fabric reach the desired color or
Quality processing.
5.4.1
refining scouring
Degumming
The process of removing silk sericin, impurities and pigments by using physical and chemical methods.
5.4.5.2
Discharge printing discharge printing
Engraving
The fabric is dyed first and then printed, and the pattern is displayed on the colored fabric by destroying the ground color with the discharge agent and the discharge aid in the color paste.
Note. It is divided into white printing and color printing.
5.4.5.3
printed warp printing
First print on the fake woven fabric, after steaming, washing and drying, cut off the weft thread of the fake weaving, and then carry out the printing method of weaving.
5.4.5.4
Burnt-outprinting burnt-outprinting
The corrosive chemicals are printed on the fabric composed of multi-component fibers, and after drying, baking, and washing, a certain fiber is destroyed to form a concave.
Embossed pattern printing method.
5.4.5.5
hand-draw printing hand-drawprinting
A printing method in which pigments or dyes are painted or splashed on the fabric by hand to form a certain pattern.
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