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GB 18267-2013 English PDF

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GB 18267-2013: Cashmere
Status: Valid

GB 18267: Historical versions

Standard IDUSDBUY PDFLead-DaysStandard Title (Description)Status
GB 18267-2013508 Add to Cart 1 days Cashmere Valid
GB 18267-2000679 Add to Cart 5 days Cashmere Obsolete

Similar standards

FZ/T 70009   FZ/T 20018   GB/T 45641   GB/T 14271   GB/T 12412   

Basic data

Standard ID: GB 18267-2013 (GB18267-2013)
Description (Translated English): Cashmere
Sector / Industry: National Standard
Classification of Chinese Standard: W21
Classification of International Standard: 59.060.10
Word Count Estimation: 24,22
Older Standard (superseded by this standard): GB 18267-2000
Quoted Standard: GB/T 2910.1; GB/T 2910.2; GB/T 2910.3; GB/T 2910.4; GB/T 2910.5; GB/T 2910.6; GB/T 2910.7; GB/T 2910.8; GB/T 2910.9; GB/T 2910.10; GB/T 2910.11; GB/T 2910.12; GB/T 2910.13; GB/T 2910.14; GB/T 2910.15; GB/T 2910.16; GB/T 2910.17; GB/T 2910.18; GB/T 2910.19
Regulation (derived from): National Standards Bulletin 2013 No. 10
Issuing agency(ies): General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of the People's Republic of China, Standardization Administration of the People's Republic of China
Summary: This standard specifies the cashmere (including raw cashmere, washed cashmere and cashmere carding) classification grading methods, technical specifications, test methods, inspection rules and inspection certificates, packaging, labeling, storage, transpo

GB 18267-2013: Cashmere

---This is a DRAFT version for illustration, not a final translation. Full copy of true-PDF in English version (including equations, symbols, images, flow-chart, tables, and figures etc.) will be manually/carefully translated upon your order.
Cashmere ICS 59.060.10 W21 National Standards of People's Republic of China Replacing GB 18267-2000 Cashmere Issued on. 2013-07-19 2014-05-09 implementation Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of People's Republic of China Standardization Administration of China released

Table of Contents

Preface Ⅰ 1 Scope 1 2 Normative references 1 3 Terms and definitions 4 Product Category 3 5 3 raw cashmere goat Wash cashmere 6 7 7 cashmere carding 13 8 inspection rules, packaging, labeling, storage, transport and re-inspection 17

Foreword

All the technical contents of this standard is mandatory. This standard was drafted in accordance with GB/T 1.1-2009 given rules. This standard replaces GB 18267-2000 "cashmere." This standard compared with GB 18267-2000 main technical changes are as follows. --- Increased impurity, impurity rate is defined (see 3.9,3.14); --- Modify the original cashmere goats type rating and technical conditions (Table 2, 2000 edition Table 2); --- Remove the original cashmere goat cashmere rate trials involving (2000 Version 6.3.7); --- Remove the original third relating to "over the wheel down," the technical requirements and test methods (2000 edition Chapter 9, Chapter 10); --- Revised net wash cashmere cashmere rate index tranches (see table 4, 2000 edition Table 6); --- Increasing the length of cashmere carding variation coefficient index and its calculation method (see 7.1, table 6,6.2.3.5.7); --- Modified carding cashmere breaking strength index (see Table 6), which test method consists of a single method to the fiber bundle fiber method (see 7.2.3.5, 2000 Version 8.3.6); --- Increased reinspection requirements (see 8.6). This standard is proposed and managed by China Fiber Inspection Bureau. This standard was drafted. China Fiber Inspection Bureau, Ministry of Agriculture, China Wool Textile Association, China Livestock Marketing Association, Hubei, Inner Mongolia Erdos Cashmere Group Co., Ltd., Inner Mongolia King Deer Cashmere Co., Ltd., Beijing Xuelian Cashmere Co., Ltd., Beijing Oriental Ye Yang Textile Woven Co., People's Republic of China Beijing Entry-Exit Inspection and Quarantine Bureau, Inner Mongolia Fiber Inspection Bureau. The main drafters of this standard. Du Shuying, Wang Xuan Ling, Tian Wenliang, Qin Yan Hua, Liang Huilian, Yanggui Fen, Yanlan Zhen, Zheng new, Shi Fang, Shen occupied East. This standard was first published in 2000, this is the first revision. Cashmere

1 Scope

This standard specifies the cashmere (including the original cashmere goats, wash cashmere and cashmere carding) classification grading methods, technical specifications, tests Methods, inspection rules and inspection certificates, packaging, labeling, storage, transportation, re-inspection requirements. This standard applies to the quality of identification of cashmere production, trade, processing, quality control and inspection of import and export.

2 Normative references

The following documents for the application of this document is essential. For dated references, only the dated version suitable for use herein Member. For undated references, the latest edition (including any amendments) applies to this document. GB/T 2910 (all parts) Textiles - Quantitative chemical analysis GB/T 6500 Test Method pile fibers regain oven method GB/T 6529 Textiles Standard conditioning and testing atmosphere GB/T 6977 washed wool ethanol extract, ash, vegetable matter, total alkaloids insolubles content of the test method GB/T 8170 repair value expressed about the rules and limit values and judgment GB 9994 the moisture regain of textile materials GB/T 10685 Test method for wool fiber diameter projection microscopy GB/T 14593 cashmere, wool and mixed fibers quantitative scanning electron microscopy GB/T 16988 special animal fiber and wool mixture Determination GB/T 21030 wool and other animal fibers with an average diameter of an optical fiber diameter distribution test method analyzer method GB/T 27629 tufts of fiber breaking strength test method IWTO-12 Siro (Sirolan) laser scanning fiber diameter analyzer method average fiber diameter and fiber diameter distribution (MeasurementofthemeananddistributionoffibrediameterusingtheSirolan-laserscanfibrediameter analyser)

3 Terms and Definitions

The following terms and definitions apply to this document. 3.1 Original cashmere goats, wash cashmere, cashmere carding collectively known as cashmere. Wherein the diameter of 25μm and below genus cashmere fibers. 3.2 From the goat who has a double coat made of the following layers fluff mainly comes with a small amount of impurities in the natural, unprocessed plush fiber. 3.3 Original cashmere goats washed cashmere certain quality requirements. 3.4 After washed cashmere, carding industry after processing. 3.5 Shag guardhair The cashmere wool fiber diameter greater than 25μm. 3.6 Leis fiber darkfibres Cashmere contained in its original color significantly different plush fibers. 3.7 Vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers like cashmere contained. 3.8 Animal fibers other than goats. 3.9 Impurities foreignmatter Soil miscellaneous cashmere in accompanying, skin leather, grass clippings and other non-fibrous materials. 3.10 The conventional mass of raw cashmere goats after washing raw cashmere goats accounted mass percentage. 3.11 Original cashmere goats by washing, drying and removal of coarse impurities, and with the moisture regain officially sanctioned mass containing fat rate revised accounting of raw cashmere goat The percentage of quality. 3.12 Original cashmere goats, cashmere quality washed velvet net rate after conversion. 3.13 With rough guardhaircontent Carding quality cashmere fiber diameter greater than 25μm total mass percentage. 3.14 Impurity rate foreignmattercontent Quality cashmere carding impurity in the total mass percentage. 3.15 Cashmere cashmere fiber contained in the morphological variation (not more than 5%), but no non-animal fibers and other animal fibers, can be regarded as full 3.16 Short fiber content shortfibrecontent Cashmere net length in 15mm and below the total number of fibers down the number of percentage. 3.17 Abnormal cashmere, including. raw hides velvet, velvet skin cooked, dry back down, back gray velvet, velvet mange, mildew and moth-eaten cashmere velvet. 3.17.1 From raw cashmere on tanned goatskin achieved. 3.17.2 Cashmere made from goatskin tanned after processing. 3.17.3 By chemical methods to obtain cashmere from the goatskin. 3.17.4 Cashmere with lime soaked goatskin achieved. 3.17.5 Suffering from scabies made of goats, with scabs and flakes of cashmere. 3.17.6 After being snapped moth bite the shorter length of cashmere. 3.17.7 After the damp heat deterioration of cashmere, its performance characteristics are fiber moldy yellow, strong small, glossy dark.

4 Products

4.1 cashmere their natural color into white cashmere, velvet blue, purple velvet, respectively, W, G, B represents. 4.2 cashmere color classification specified in Table 1. Table 1 cashmere color classification regulations Color category Exterior Features White cashmere wool cashmere fibers and natural fibers are white Aoyama gray cashmere cashmere fibers were green and white color, hair color or black and white fibers were brown Purple cashmere cashmere fibers were purple and white color brown, dark brown or black hair fibers 4.3 cashmere mixed different color categories, according to the color depth of a given class.

5 raw cashmere goat

5.1 Technical conditions 5.1.1 cashmere goats original model level technical requirements in Table 2. Table 2 Type of raw cashmere goats level technical requirements Model average diameter/μm level Staple Length/mm quality characteristics Superfine ≤14.5 Special ≥38 A ≥34, < 38 Two < 34 Natural color, bright and shiny and soft, smooth and delicate feel. Fiber strength and good elasticity, easy to contain traces of broken off Dander Ultra-fine type > 14.5 ≤15.5 Special ≥40 A ≥37, < 40 Two < 37 Natural color, bright and shiny and soft, smooth and delicate feel. Fiber strength and good elasticity, easy to contain traces of broken off Dander Fine type > 15.5 ≤16.0 A ≥43 Two ≥40, < 43 Three ≥37, < 40 Four < 37 Natural color, shiny and bright, soft to the touch. And fiber strength Good elasticity, containing a small number of easily broken off dander Coarse type > 16.0 ≤18.5 A ≥44 Two < 44 Natural color, good gloss, feel is good. Fibers, elastic and Force is better, easy to fall off containing a small amount of crushed dander 5.1.2 Table 2, the average diameter, hand-pulling the length of two assessment indicators, quality characteristics of the reference index. 5.1.3 defect cashmere hides velvet, velvet skin cooked, dry retreat velvet, gray velvet back and sorting should be individually packaged, scabies velvet, cashmere moth-eaten, moldy velvet should pick In addition shall not be mixed. 5.1.4 raw cashmere goats Regain shall not exceed 13%. 5.2 Test Method 5.2.1 apparatus and appliances 5.2.1.1 scouring equipment. scouring tank, the effective capacity of 10L or more to meet the testing requirements, double copper mesh sandwiched bottom (each 25mm100 mesh) And a suitable drainage system. 5.2.1.2 nonionic detergent. 5.2.1.3 centrifugal dehydrator, dehydrated with silk bag. 5.2.1.4 eight baskets oven. 5.2.1.5 balance (dividing the value of 1g, 0.1g, 0.01g, 0.0001g). 5.2.1.6 Weighing (division value. 0.1kg, 0.01kg, 0.001kg). 5.2.1.7 hand row length standard board (centralized department should use the standard hand crafted row length standard board). 5.2.1.8 velvet version (dark, light). 5.2.1.9 steel ruler (division value 1mm). 5.2.1.10 optical microscopy projector. 5.2.1.11 optical fiber diameter analyzer. 5.2.1.12 laser fiber diameter analyzer. 5.2.2 Sample Preparation 5.2.2.1 lot sample 5.2.2.1.1 Sampling proportion and quantity. 20 bags and packages by the following extract, 20 bags by more than 30% extraction increasing portion, less than a pack a bag press meter. 50kg package unpaired counted as a package. The total sample mass of not less than 3kg. 5.2.2.1.2 Sampling Method. open packet mode respectively from a random sample package and other random parts of central, deeper than the skin packaging 15cm and above At the sample. The extracted sample batches into A, B two parts, A lot sample for assessing hand pull length, fiber type, type, grade, quality Characteristics and defects down, the total mass of the sample less than 1kg. Lot sample B for cleaning rate, net cashmere rate and the average diameter of the test, the total number of sample mass To 2kg. After the grant should be quickly extracted sample B in sealed containers, and 4h of default weight, calculated as ma, accurate to 1g. 5.2.2.2 laboratory sample 5.2.2.2.1 The extracted sample batch B opener, miscellaneous soil removed, the sample was mixed thoroughly, picked up impurities left in the hair fiber, on the Together with the sample weighed opening mixed, counted as mb, accurate to 1g. 5.2.2.2.2 The opening, after the sample was mixed with a bisection into two equal parts, one for the laboratory samples, one reserved for sample preparation. 5.2.2.2.3 K value according to equation (1). K = mb/ma (1) Where. K --- coefficient, rounded to four decimal places; After opening mb --- sample mass, in grams (g); ma --- sample before opening mass in grams (g). 5.2.2.2.4 K value should be archived and sample preparation. 5.2.2.3 Sample 5.2.2.3.1 hand-pulling length of the sample. A sample from the batch in a multi-point method randomly hand pull 10 parts to 20 parts length of the sample, the quality of each sample About 80mg ~ 100mg. 5.2.2.3.2 The average diameter of the fiber category, type, grade, quality characteristics and defects velvet samples. extraction has been passed, pulling a lot sample length of the sample A sample extract average diameter of the remaining portion of the sample as determined fiber category, type, grade, quality characteristics and defects velvet. 5.2.2.3.3 Wash sample rate. from laboratory samples randomly drawn five quick cleaning of the specimen, the quality of each sample was 150g × K [by the Formula (1) is determined], accurate to 0.1g. 5.2.3 Test items and methods 5.2.3.1 Staple Length Test 5.2.3.1.1 hand pull the extracted length of the sample, first a preliminary order, remove the thick, long goat hair and some impurities. Then, both hands The sample was split ends in the same direction and then combined sample separation, tightly holding in one hand, the other hand extractor and finishing fibers in extractor Process, to remove coarse, or rearranging, making it flush with an end, straight natural fibers, hairs beam width of about 20mm, after molding Tufts weighs about 60mg, the tufts placed velvet board with steel measuring tape at both ends do not reveal the length of the pile is the length of the sample between the plates, coarse indeed To 0.5mm. 5.2.3.1.2 10 parts to 20 parts by hand pull the average length of the sample as the final result. The results rounded to integer millimeters (Mm). 5.2.3.2 The average diameter of the test Sensory testing methods may be used. If the sensory test method disagrees with the results, the instrument method is used for testing. Instrumental method Press GB/T 10685 or GB/T 21030 or methods IWTO-12 carried out. Adopt a projection optical microscopy to test the principle of arbitration method. 5.2.3.3 fiber category, type, grade, quality characteristics and defects velvet test Fiber type, quality characteristics and defects velvet subjective test, combined with an average diameter, hand-pull length two indicators, according to Table 2 Evaluation Unit Model test batches of raw cashmere, grade. 5.2.3.4 cleaning rate test 5.2.3.4.1 cleaning rate from the sample, randomly selected three samples were washed, and the remaining two reserved for sample preparation. 5.2.3.4.2 washing conditions are shown in Table 3. Table 3 washing conditions Conditions Do slot The solution was washed with water wash lotion Shimizu Shimizu Controlling the temperature/℃ 45 ~ 50 50 ~ 55 50 ~ 55 40 ~ 45 40 ~ 45 Washing time/min 3 3 3 3 3 5.2.3.4.3 neutral detergent, wash concentration of 0.3% ~ 0.4%, bowls bath ratio 1.60. The washing process as much as possible of the original cashmere goats Vegetable matter and other impurities picked. After washing raw cashmere goat grass matter content should be less than 2% fat content should be less than 1.5%. 5.2.3.4.4 dehydration, drying. After loading the sample will be washed silk bags, dewatered by centrifugation, according to GB/T 6500 bake to oven dry mass Amount, counted as ms, accurate to 0.01g. 5.2.3.4.5 cleaning rate according to equation (2). Y = ms100 R () s (2) Where. Y --- Wash cashmere goats original rate,%; ms --- Sample oven dry mass washed in grams (g); Rs --- Wash cashmere moisture regain,%, according to GB 9994 in heterogeneous scoured wool count, Rs = 15; 150 --- extracted from the opening, after mixing the sample corresponds to the quality of cashmere goats original sample, in grams (g). 5.2.3.4.6 cleaning rate to the average of triplicate to the test results. When the sample was washed three poor rate more than 3 percentage points, should By the fourth test, five samples and the average of five specimens cleaning rate as the final result. The results rounded to two decimal places. 5.2.3.5 The net cashmere rate testing 5.2.3.5.1 rate from the wash to test bake oven dry cleaning quality cashmere, velvet net rate of rapid random sample in triplicate, to the quality of each sample 5g, referred to as md, accurate to 0.01g, which do two parallel trials, one reserved for sample preparation. 5.2.3.5.2 clamp the sample of coarse, impurities picked, according to GB/T 6500 net down to the bake oven dry mass, denoted by mp, the nearest 0.0001g. 5.2.3.5.3 Test greasy cashmere net rate. net velvet mp Press GB/T 6977 were greasy rate testing. 5.2.3.5.4 net cashmere rate according to equation (3) Calculated. P = mp100 R () p 100-J () e 100 J () p md100 R () s × 104 × Y (3) Where. P --- net cashmere rate,%; mp --- Net velvet oven dry mass, in grams (g); Rp --- carding cashmere moisture regain,%, according to GB 9994 execution, Rp = 17; Je --- Found greasy rate,%; Jp --- carding cashmere Pub greasy rate,%, Jp = 1.5; md --- net cashmere rate sample oven dry mass, in grams (g); Rs --- Wash down the moisture regain,%, with the formula (2); Y --- cleaning rate,%, see formula (2). 5.2.3.5.5 average of duplicate samples in velvet net rate of test results. When the net cashmere rate test results two samples of the absolute difference over two When points shall be added to the third test sample, and the average of triplicate net cashmere rate as the final result. The results rounded to two Decimals. 5.2.3.6 The net amount of cashmere public test 5.2.3.6.1 in the lot sample extracted at the same time on the same batch of raw cashmere goats package by weighing, the cumulative total gross weight, denoted mg, to the nearest 0.1kg. random Extracting two samples package peeled, were weighed tare, as the average value of the average grant per pack of heavy leather, denoted mt, accurate to 0.01kg. 5.2.3.6.2 Inspection Lot total net weight of raw cashmere by formula (4) Calculated. mn = mg-mt × N (4) Where. mn --- inspection lot of raw cashmere total net weight, in kilograms (kg); mg --- inspection lot of raw cashmere total gross weight in kilograms (kg); mt --- per pack of Tare, in kilograms (kg); N --- Number of packages. 5.2.3.6.3 The net amount of cashmere public according to formula (5) Calculated. m = P × mn/100 (5) Where. m --- the net amount of cashmere public, in kilograms (kg); P --- net cashmere rate,%; mn --- inspection lot of raw cashmere total net weight, in kilograms (kg). Rounding 5.2.4 Test Data According to GB/T 8170 in the method.

6 wash cashmere

6.1 Technical Specifications 6.1.1 Wash cashmere with an average diameter and an average length, velvet net rate of three indicators for the assessment indicators. 6.1.2 Wash cashmere quality in the category, type, properties as follows. S × category ×××× model - × characteristic 6.1.2.1 Class. The two capital letters, the first letter "S", represents washed cashmere, second place for the W, G, B, respectively That indicates the color category Cashmere, blue velvet, purple velvet. 6.1.2.2 Type. four-digit Arabic numerals, the first two showing the average diameter, according to test results after a bit and one decimal place Numerical representation; third and fourth hand represents the average row length, according to test results rounded to integer. 6.1.2.3 Characteristics. In capital letters net cashmere rate tranches. net wash cashmere cashmere rate is divided into A, B, C third gear, are shown in Table 4. Table 4 Wash down net cashmere rate tranches table index Binning ABC Net cashmere rate /%> 74 68 to 74 < 68 6.1.2.4 Example. SW5435-B (such as technical indicators missing items, its position "×" indicates) wherein. "-" Indicates the former category and model, and numbers in alphabetical order. S --- Wash cashmere; W --- white; 54 --- average diameter. 15.4μm; 35 --- Average length. 35mm. "-" After a characteristic. B --- Wash down net cashmere rate. 68% to 74%. 6.1.3 Wash cashmer......
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