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GB/T 14272-2021 (GBT 14272-2021)

GB/T 14272-2021_English: PDF (GBT14272-2021)
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BASIC DATA
Standard ID GB/T 14272-2021 (GB/T14272-2021)
Description (Translated English) Down garments
Sector / Industry National Standard (Recommended)
Classification of Chinese Standard Y76
Classification of International Standard 61.020
Word Count Estimation 26,296
Date of Issue 2021-03-09
Date of Implementation 2022-04-01
Older Standard (superseded by this standard) GB/T 14272-2011
Drafting Organization Shanghai Textile Group Testing Standard Co., Ltd., Bosideng Down Garment Co., Ltd., Xuezhongfei Industrial Co., Ltd., China Garment Association, Guangzhou Inspection, Testing and Certification Group Co., Ltd., Islay Fashion Co., Ltd., Yalu Group Co., Ltd., Zhejiang Semir Clothing Co., Ltd., Nike Sports (China) Co., Ltd., Lilang (China) Co., Ltd., Fujian Qipilang Industrial Co., Ltd., Hengyuanxiang (Group) Co., Ltd., Hangzhou Liancheng Huazhuo Industrial Co., Ltd., Hailan Home Co., Ltd., Qingzhou City Tambor Apparel Co., Ltd., Xtep (China) Co., Ltd., Carl Denton Clothing Co., Ltd., Wenzhou Darong Textile Instrument Co., Ltd., Anhui Guqi Fleece Material Co., Ltd., Dongli Jiuyi Weaving and Dyeing (Nantong) Co., Ltd., Shanshan Brand Shipping
Administrative Organization National Apparel Standardization Technical Committee (SAC/TC 219)
Regulation (derived from) National Standard Announcement No. 3 of 2021
Proposing organization China National Textile and Apparel Council
Issuing agency(ies) State Administration for Market Regulation, National Standardization Administration

GB/T 14272-2021
GB
NATIONAL STANDARD OF THE
PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
ICS 61.020
CCS Y 76
Replacing GB/T 14272-2011
Down garments
羽绒服装
ISSUED ON: MARCH 09, 2021
IMPLEMENTED ON: APRIL 01, 2022
Issued by: State Administration for Market Regulation;
Standardization Administration of PRC.
Table of Contents
Foreword ... 3 
1 Scope ... 6 
2 Normative references ... 6 
3 Terms and definitions ... 7 
4 Requirements ... 8 
5 Test method ... 19 
6 Inspection rules ... 22 
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage ... 28 
Appendix A (Normative) Quality requirements for down ... 29 
Appendix B (Normative) Test method for down filling amount of finished product
... 30 
Appendix C (Normative) Determination of down fluffy degree - Steam reduction
method ... 32 
Appendix D (Normative) Test method for down sprouting resistance of down
garments - Garment revolving box method ... 35 
Down garments
1 Scope
This document specifies the terms and definitions, requirements, inspection
methods, inspection rules, marking, packaging, transportation and storage of
down garments.
This document is applicable to clothing, which is produced with woven fabric as
the main fabric AND down as filler. Small parts such as placket, flap, hood, collar,
etc. can use other fillers.
This document does not apply to garments, which are filled with down and fiber
blends, layered or zoned with fiber filling.
2 Normative references
The following documents are essential to the application of this document. For
the dated documents, only the versions with the dates indicated are applicable
to this document; for the undated documents, only the latest version (including
all the amendments) is applicable to this standard.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Grey scale for assessing
change in color
GB/T 1335 (all parts) Clothing size
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to
washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of consumer products - Part 4: Textiles and
clothing
GB/T 6529 Textiles - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
GB/T 8170 Rules of rounding off for numerical values & expression and
judgement of limiting values
GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial
light: Xenon arc
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for
textile testing
Down garments
Garments which use down as the filler AND have an express value of the
down content not less than 50%.
3.2
Filling shell
Fabric or non-woven fabric, which wraps down between the fabric and the
lining.
3.3
Baby and infant
Children aged 36 months and below.
Note: Generally, it refers to children, who has a height of 100 cm and below.
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use are in accordance with GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701. Down
filler shall be marked with down type, down content, filling amount. Among them,
down content shall be labeled and graded in accordance with the requirements
of Table A.1 in Appendix A.
4.2 Model specifications
4.2.1 The model setting is in accordance with GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.2.2 The specifications of the main parts are designed by themselves,
according to the relevant requirements of GB/T 1335 (all parts).
4.3 Raw materials
4.3.1 Fabrics
It should use the fabrics that meet the requirements of this document. The
fabrics, which are directly quilted with down, shall have down sprouting
resistance.
4.3.2 Lining and filling shell
4.3.2.1 It should use lining and filling shell materials, that are suitable for the
fabric used AND meet the requirements of this document.
4.3.2.2 It shall not use airtight fabrics and films.
4.3.2.3 Lining and filling shell materials, which are directly quilted with down,
shall have down sprouting resistance.
4.3.3 Filler
4.3.3.1 The express value of down content of down shall not be less than 50%.
4.3.3.2 The deviation between the filling amount of the finished product and the
indicated value shall not be less than -5.0%.
4.3.3.3 The down quality requirements shall be in accordance with Appendix A.
Note: The other indicators of down fillers, which are not assessed in this document,
shall be determined by the supplier and the buyer, according to the product
requirements.
4.3.4 Accessories
4.3.4.1 Lining cloth, shoulder pads, decorative lace, bag cloth
It should use the lining cloths, shoulder pads, decorative laces, bag cloths,
which are suitable for the properties of the fabrics and linings used. Their quality
shall comply with the relevant requirements of this document.
4.3.4.2 Sutures, cords, elastic bands
It should use sutures, cords and elastics (except decorative threads and
decorative belts), that are suitable for the properties of the fabrics, linings,
accessories used.
4.3.4.3 Buttons, zippers, other accessories
It should use buttons (except for decoration), zippers, other accessories, which
are suitable for the fabric used. Buttons, decorative buckles, zippers, other
accessories shall have a smooth surface AND be free from burrs, damages,
defects, touchable sharp tips, sharp edges. The zipper meshes well and
smoothly.
Note: Touchable sharp tips and sharp edges refer to sharp tips and edges on the
finished product, that may cause personal injury to human skin, under normal wearing
conditions.
4.4 Warp and weft direction
4.4.1 The front warp shall not be inclined, according to the placket line.
for testing.
5.4 Determination of down quality
5.4.1 Take out all the down of the whole sample. Mix it evenly before test.
5.4.2 Down quality is measured according to the method, which is described in
GB/T 10288-2016, of which:
a) In the identification of goose and duck down types, the specimen
preparation is uniformly performed according to the steps of completing
the composition analysis test.
b) Turbidity is determined, according to the method described in Method A in
GB/T 10288-2016.
c) The bulkiness is measured, according to the method described in
Appendix C.
5.5 Determination of appearance
5.5.1 The appearance inspection generally adopts light illumination. The
illuminance is not less than 600 lx. It may also use the northern sky light, when
conditions permit.
5.5.2 When assessing the degree of color difference, the yarn direction of the
assessed part shall be the same. The incident light is at an angle of about 45°
with the surface of the fabric. The observation direction shall be perpendicular
to the surface of the fabric. It is visually inspected at a distance of 60 cm. It is
compared with the sample scale of GB/T 250.
5.5.3 When determining the allowable degree of existence of surface defects,
visually inspect it at a distance of 60 cm. When appropriate, use a steel tape or
ruler for measurement. The defects in each part of the finished product are
compared with the "Five-level sample photos of appearance defects and
sewing wrinkles of down garment " and "Samples photos of appearance defects
of men's and women's singles, cotton garments, and men's and children's
single garments".
5.5.4 The stitch pitch density is measured, at any 3 cm on the finished sewing
stitches (except for thick and thin parts). Compare the seam shrinkage of the
main parts of the finished product with the "Five-level sample photos of
appearance defects and sewing wrinkles of down garment".
5.5.5 The skew degree of warp and weft yarn is measured according to the
method described in GB/T 14801. The result is calculated according to formula
(1).
Where:
S - Skew degree of warp or weft yarn, %;
d - The maximum vertical distance BETWEEN the warp or weft AND the ruler,
in millimeters (mm);
W - The width of the measuring part, in millimeters (mm).
5.5.6 The sharpness of the tip and edge of the attachment is measured,
according to the method described in GB/T 31702.
5.6 Determination of physical and chemical properties
5.6.1 The safety performance of garments for baby and infants, as well as
children, shall be determined according to the method described in GB 31701.
5.6.2 Alkylphenol (AP) and alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether (APnEO) are
determined, according to the liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-
MS), which is described in 6.2 of GB/T 23322-2018. Take a representative
specimen and mix well. Weigh 0.5 g of specimen, from the mixed sample,
accurate to 0.01 g. Place it in a 250 mL conical flask with stopper. Add 80 mL
of methanol. Ultrasonically extract it for (60 ± 5) min at (70 ± 2) °C.
5.6.3 The color fastness to soap washing shall be determined, according to the
method described in Method A(1) of GB/T 3921-2008.
5.6.4 The color fastness to light is determined, according to the method
described in GB/T 8427-2019, in which the exposure is carried out according to
Method 3, meanwhile the exposure is carried out to the first stage.
5.6.5 The color fastness to staining after splicing shall be determined, according
to the method described in Method A of GB/T 31127-2014.
5.6.6 The sampling location for the cracking degree of seam shall be as
specified in Table 9. The degree of seam cracking shall be determined,
according to the method described in GB/T 21294. Among them, for the fabrics
and lining, which have a fabric mass per unit area of 52 g/m2 and below, the
specified load shall be (45 ± 1) N. The sample, whose fabric and lining are
quilted together, is tested as a whole; the load is applied according to the
combined quality of the fabric and lining. The inspection results of batch
products shall be averaged, according to the provisions of GB/T 21294; the
actual measured value shall be taken for a single product.
Appendix C
(Normative)
Determination of down fluffy degree - Steam reduction method
C.1 Instruments and tools
C.1.1 Fluffy meter: anti-static organic glass cylinder, which has a height of not
less than 600 mm, AND an inner diameter of (288 ± 1) mm. The platen material
is polymethyl methacrylate, which has a diameter of (284 ± 1) mm, a mass of
(94.25 ± 0.5) g, a number of holes of 128, AND a hole diameter of 3 mm.
C.1.2 Pouring bucket: funnel type; material is aluminum or other light materials;
the cylinder's inner diameter is (40 ± 0.5) cm, the height is (45 ± 1) cm, the
bottom's inner diameter is (16 ± 0.5) cm; there is a bottom cover that is attached
to the bottom AND can be opened and closed.
C.1.3 Stirring rod: the length of the two rods protruding from the bifurcation is
about (60 ± 1) cm; the diameter is (8 ± 1) mm; the angle is (8 ± 1) °; they are
bundled together.
C.1.4 Pre-treatment box: The internal size is (40 ± 0.5) cm × (40 ± 0.5) cm ×
(40 ± 0.5) cm; the bottom of the box is a fixed bottom plate; the upper is a
movable cover plate; it is surrounded by 14 mesh ~ 16 mesh stainless steel
mesh, which has an aperture size of 1.0 mm ~ 1.19 mm; the mesh size is (35
± 0.5) cm × (35 ± 0.5) cm.
C.1.5 Steam generator: the blowing pressure is 0.3 MPa ~ 0.35 MPa; the
heating power is 1400 W ~ 1800 W.
C.1.6 Nozzle: single flow, spray type, diameter 2 mm.
C.1.7 Hair dryer: rated power 1500 W ~ 1600 W.
C.1.8 Electronic scale: the weighing pan size is above 20 cm × 20 cm; the
maximum weighing is above 3000 g; the division value is 0.1 g.
C.1.9 Stopwatch.
C.2 Specimen preparation
C.2.1 Prepare two independent samples; each has a mass of (35 ± 2) g.
C.2.2 Put the first sample into the pre-treatment box. Use a wooden stick to
gently disperse it. There shall be no lumps and entanglements.
C.2.3 The nozzle of the steam generator is 10 cm ~ 15 cm away from the mesh
of the pre-treatment box. Blow the steam into the pre-treatment box. Blow for
20 s on each side, totally 80 s for four sides. Use hands to touch the sample, to
confirm that all down and feathers are damp. If it is not completely wet, continue
to blow in steam, until the sample is completely wet.
C.2.4 Place the sample for (5 ± 2) min.
C.2.5 The hair dryer is 1 cm ~ 2 cm away from the mesh of the pre-treatment
box. Blow the sample dry. Move the dryer continuously, to blow each side for at
least 30 s, totally more than 2 min on four sides. Use hand to touch the sample,
to confirm that the down and feathers are dry. If it is not completely dry, continue
blowing until the sample is completely dry.
C.2.6 Steam-treat the second sample, according to C.2.2 ~ C.2.5 above.
C.2.7 Equilibrate the pre-treatment box, which contains the sample, in a
standard atmosphere, for more than 48 hours.
C.3 Test procedures
C.3.1 Carry out antistatic treatment on the measuring cylinder.
a) In order to reduce the generation of static electricity, scrub the measuring
cylinder at least once a day, OR scrub the measuring cylinder at most
once every 30 measurements.
b) Dip a soft cotton cloth with anionic active detergent, which is diluted to an
appropriate content, to scrub the cylinder; use cleaning water to rinse it
twice. Dry it naturally and thoroughly.
c) Use the same method to clean the platen.
C.3.2 Test procedures for fluffy degree, in C.3.3 ~ C.3.8, shall be performed in
a constant temperature and humidity chamber.
C.3.3 Weighing: Use a funnel-type dumping bucket, to weigh (30 ± 0.1) g of the
treated specimen.
C.3.4 Pouring: Open the bottom cover of the pouring bucket, to let all the
samples slowly fall into the fluffy degree measuring bucket. Remove the
dumping bucket.
C.3.5 Stirring: Hold the top of the stirring rod. Extend the stirring rod along the
wall of the bucket, to the bottom of the cylinder. Make the stirring rod rise, whilst
shaking it slightly and slowly, thereby loosening the down. Repeat this process
5 times from different areas of the cylinder wall. The mixing time is 10 s ~ 15 s
each time.