GB/T 14272-2021 PDF English
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| GB/T 14272-2011 | English | 95 |
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| GB/T 14272-1993 | English | 519 |
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GB/T 14272-2021: Down garments---This is an excerpt. Full copy of true-PDF in English version (including equations, symbols, images, flow-chart, tables, and figures etc.), auto-downloaded/delivered in 9 seconds, can be purchased online: https://www.ChineseStandard.net/PDF.aspx/GBT14272-2021
GB
NATIONAL STANDARD OF THE
PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
ICS 61.020
CCS Y 76
Replacing GB/T 14272-2011
Down garments
羽绒服装
Issued on. MARCH 09, 2021
Implemented on. APRIL 01, 2022
Issued by. State Administration for Market Regulation;
Standardization Administration of PRC.
Table of Contents
Foreword... 3
1 Scope... 6
2 Normative references... 6
3 Terms and definitions... 7
4 Requirements... 8
5 Test method... 19
6 Inspection rules... 22
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage... 28
Appendix A (Normative) Quality requirements for down... 29
Appendix B (Normative) Test method for down filling amount of finished product
... 30
Appendix C (Normative) Determination of down fluffy degree - Steam reduction
method... 32
Appendix D (Normative) Test method for down sprouting resistance of down
garments - Garment revolving box method... 35
1 Scope
This document specifies the terms and definitions, requirements, inspection
methods, inspection rules, marking, packaging, transportation and storage of
down garments.
This document is applicable to clothing, which is produced with woven fabric as
the main fabric AND down as filler. Small parts such as placket, flap, hood, collar,
etc. can use other fillers.
This document does not apply to garments, which are filled with down and fiber
blends, layered or zoned with fiber filling.
2 Normative references
The following documents are essential to the application of this document. For
the dated documents, only the versions with the dates indicated are applicable
to this document; for the undated documents, only the latest version (including
all the amendments) is applicable to this standard.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Grey scale for assessing
change in color
GB/T 1335 (all parts) Clothing size
GB/T 3921-2008 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to
washing with soap or soap and soda
GB/T 5296.4 Instructions for use of consumer products - Part 4.Textiles and
clothing
GB/T 6529 Textiles - Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
GB/T 8170 Rules of rounding off for numerical values & expression and
judgement of limiting values
GB/T 8427-2019 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to artificial
light. Xenon arc
GB/T 8629-2017 Textiles - Domestic washing and drying procedures for
textile testing
GB/T 10288-2016 Testing methods for down and feather
GB/T 14801 Test method for skewness and bow in woven and knitted fabrics
GB/T 15557 Standard terminology relating to apparel
GB/T 17685 Down and feather
GB 18401 National general safety technical code for textile products
GB/T 21294 Testing methods of physical and chemical performance of
garments
3 Terms and definitions
The terms and definitions as defined in GB/T 17685 and GB/T 15557, as well
as the following terms and definitions, apply to this document.
3.1 Down garments
Garments which use down as the filler AND have an express value of the
down content not less than 50%.
3.2 Filling shell
Fabric or non-woven fabric, which wraps down between the fabric and the
lining.
3.3 Baby and infant
Children aged 36 months and below.
Note. Generally, it refers to children, who has a height of 100 cm and below.
4 Requirements
4.1 Instructions for use
Instructions for use are in accordance with GB/T 5296.4 and GB 31701.Down
filler shall be marked with down type, down content, filling amount. Among them,
down content shall be labeled and graded in accordance with the requirements
of Table A.1 in Appendix A.
4.2 Model specifications
4.3 Raw materials
4.3.1 Fabrics
It should use the fabrics that meet the requirements of this document. The
fabrics, which are directly quilted with down, shall have down sprouting
resistance.
4.3.2 Lining and filling shell
4.3.3 Filler
4.3.4 Accessories
4.3.4.1 Lining cloth, shoulder pads, decorative lace, bag cloth
It should use the lining cloths, shoulder pads, decorative laces, bag cloths,
which are suitable for the properties of the fabrics and linings used. Their quality
shall comply with the relevant requirements of this document.
4.3.4.2 Sutures, cords, elastic bands
It should use sutures, cords and elastics (except decorative threads and
decorative belts), that are suitable for the properties of the fabrics, linings,
accessories used.
4.3.4.3 Buttons, zippers, other accessories
It should use buttons (except for decoration), zippers, other accessories, which
are suitable for the fabric used. Buttons, decorative buckles, zippers, other
accessories shall have a smooth surface AND be free from burrs, damages,
defects, touchable sharp tips, sharp edges. The zipper meshes well and
smoothly.
4.4 Warp and weft direction
4.4.1 The front warp shall not be inclined, according to the placket line.
4.4.2 The back warp shall be based on the center line of the back. The
inclination shall not be greater than 1.0 cm. The inclination of the coat shall not
be greater than 1.5 cm. The strip grid material shall not be inclined.
4.5 Alignment of strips and grids
4.5.1 If the fabric has obvious strips and the grids, which are 1.0 cm and above,
follow the requirements in Table 2.
4.5.2 For inverted wool, concave and convex grids, the whole body is in the
same direction.
4.5.3 Special pattern fabrics are subject to the main pattern; the whole body is
in the same direction.
4.6 Color difference
4.6.1 The color difference of sleeve seams, hem seams, crotch seams shall not
be lower than grade 3-4.The color difference of other surface parts shall not be
lower than grade 4.The color difference caused by multi-layer fabrics or
covered fusible interlining is not less than grade 3-4.
4.6.2 The color difference between the top and bottom of the suit is not less
than grade 3-4.
4.7 Appearance defects
The allowable extent of defects in each part of the finished product shall be as
specified in Table 3.The division of each part of the finished product is as shown
in Figure 1.Only one kind of defect is allowed in each part; the allowable degree
of existence conforms to the provisions of Table 3.
4.8.2 The longitudinal quilting line on the surface shall be symmetrical.
4.8.3 The stitch pitch density shall meet the requirements of Table 5.
4.8.4 The sewing line of each part shall be straight, neat, firm. The sewing
shrinkage of the main surface parts shall be no less than Grade 3, in
accordance with the "Five-level samples of down garment appearance defects
and sewing wrinkles".
4.8.5 The upper and lower lines are tight appropriately; there is no
disconnection. There shall be back stitches at the start and end stitches.
4.8.6 Buttons and buttonholes shall be aligned in the up and down directions.
The four-way buckle is firm, aligned up and down, appropriately matched,
without deformation or over-tightening.
4.9 Allowable deviation of specifications
The allowable deviation of the specifications of the main parts of the finished
product shall meet the requirements of Table 6.
4.10 Ironing
4.11 Physical and chemical properties
5 Test method
5.1 Instruments and materials
5.1.1 Steel tape or ruler, the graduation value of which is 1 mm.
5.1.2 Balance and electronic balance.
5.1.3 Gray scale (GB/T 250) for evaluating discoloration.
5.2 Determination of specification
The specifications and dimensions of the main parts are determined according
to the method, which is described in GB/T 31907.The allowable deviation of
specifications and dimensions shall be in accordance with Table 6.
5.3 Determination of down filling amount
The filling amount of the finished product shall be determined according to the
method described in Appendix B. Randomly select one piece from the sample
for testing.
5.4 Determination of down quality
5.5 Determination of appearance
5.5.1 The appearance inspection generally adopts light illumination. The
illuminance is not less than 600 lx. It may also use the northern sky light, when
conditions permit.
5.5.2 When assessing the degree of color difference, the yarn direction of the
assessed part shall be the same. The incident light is at an angle of about 45°
with the surface of the fabric. The observation direction shall be perpendicular
to the surface of the fabric. It is visually inspected at a distance of 60 cm. It is
compared with the sample scale of GB/T 250.
5.5.5 The skew degree of warp and weft yarn is measured according to the
method described in GB/T 14801.The result is calculated according to formula (1).
5.5.6 The sharpness of the tip and edge of the attachment is measured,
according to the method described in GB/T 31702.
5.6 Determination of physical and chemical properties
5.6.1 The safety performance of garments for baby and infants, as well as
children, shall be determined according to the method described in GB 31701.
5.6.2 Alkylphenol (AP) and alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether (APnEO) are
determined, according to the liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-
MS), which is described in 6.2 of GB/T 23322-2018.Take a representative
specimen and mix well. Weigh 0.5 g of specimen, from the mixed sample,
accurate to 0.01 g. Place it in a 250 mL conical flask with stopper. Add 80 mL
of methanol. Ultrasonically extract it for (60 ± 5) min at (70 ± 2) °C.
5.6.3 The color fastness to soap washing shall be determined, according to the
method described in Method A(1) of GB/T 3921-2008.
5.6.4 The color fastness to light is determined, according to the method
described in GB/T 8427-2019, in which the exposure is carried out according to
Method 3, meanwhile the exposure is carried out to the first stage.
5.6.7 The down sprouting value is determined, according to the method
described in Appendix D. The samples, which had been subject to the down
sprouting resistance, shall not be used for testing of other items.
5.6.9 Other physical and chemical properties are measured according to the
method described in GB/T 21294.Among them, single fiber lining is selected,
for the arbitration test of color fastness to soap washing, perspiration, water. In
the event of a dispute or arbitration on the down sprouting value, take the
arithmetic average of the test results of two samples of the same batch, style,
color, specification, as the final result (rounded off to an integer, according to
GB/T 8170).
5.6.10 For test items that do not mention the sampling location, it may select
specimens from the finished product as required for the test.
6 Inspection rules
6.1 Classification of inspections
6.1.1 Finished product inspection is divided into exit-factory inspection and type
inspection. The timing of the type inspection is based on the actual conditions
of the manufacturer OR the contractual agreement. It is generally carried out,
when the production is transferred, the production is resumed after the
production suspension, the raw materials or processes have major changes.
6.1.2 The exit-factory inspection items shall be in accordance with the
provisions of Chapter 4, except for 4.3.3 and 4.11.The exit-factory inspection
rules for finished products are in accordance with the requirements of FZ/T 80004.
6.1.3 Type inspection items are in accordance with the requirements of Chapter 4.
6.2 Appearance quality grade and defect classification rules
6.2.1 Appearance quality grading
The quality grading of the finished product is based on the existence and
severity of defects. The single product in the sample taken is graded, by the
number of defects and its severity. The batch grade is classified by the grade
of single products in the sample taken.
6.2.2 Classification of appearance defects
A single product that does not meet the requirements specified in this document
constitutes a defect. According to the product's non-compliance with the
requirements of this document as well as the degree of influence on product
performance and appearance, defects are divided into three categories.
6.2.3 Judgment basis for appearance quality defects
The appearance quality defects are judged according to Table 10.
6.4 Judgment rules
6.4.1 Appearance judgment of a single piece (sample)
The appearance judgment rules of a single piece (sample) are as follows.
6.4.2 Judgement of batch grade
If one or more of the down quality and physical and chemical properties are
unqualified, the batch will be judged to be unqualified.
6.4.3 Qualified judgment
In the random inspection, if the judgement number of batches meets the
corresponding grade requirements in 6.4.2, it is judged to be a qualified batch.
Otherwise, the batch of products is judged to be unqualified.
6.4.4 Reinspection requirements
When the judgement number of batches, in the random inspection, does not
meet the requirements of this document, OR the supplier and the buyer
disagree with the inspection results, it may carry out a second random
inspection. The number of samples for random inspections shall be doubled.
Take the re-inspection result as the final judgment result.
7 Marking, packaging, transportation and storage
Marking, packaging, transportation, storage shall be implemented in
accordance with FZ/T 80002.
......
Source: Above contents are excerpted from the full-copy PDF -- translated/reviewed by: www.ChineseStandard.net / Wayne Zheng et al.
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