FZ/T 73018-2021 PDF English
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FZ/T 73018-2021: PDF in English (FZT 73018-2021) FZ/T 73018-2021
FZ
TEXTILE INDUSTRY STANDARD OF
THE PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA
ICS 59.080.30
W 63
Replacing FZ/T 73018-2012
Wool knitting goods
毛纺织品
ISSUED ON: APRIL 19, 2021
IMPLEMENTED ON: JULY 01, 2021
Issued by: Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of PRC
Table of Contents
Foreword ... 3
1 Scope ... 7
2 Normative references ... 7
3 Terms and definitions ... 9
4 Product classification ... 10
5 Technical requirements ... 10
6 Test method ... 16
7 Inspection rules ... 23
8 Acceptance rules ... 25
9 Packaging and marking ... 25
10 Others ... 26
Appendix A (Normative) Description of appearance defects ... 27
Wool knitting goods
1 Scope
This document specifies the terms and definitions, product classification,
technical requirements, test methods, inspection rules, acceptance rules,
packaging and marking, of wool knitting goods.
This document is applicable to the identification of fine and carded pure sheep
wool knitting goods, blended knitting goods with a sheep wool content of 30%
and above, the quality of products which are made of the above knitted fabrics
as the main fabric and other fabrics. Other animal wool fiber products can also
make reference to this document.
This document does not apply to wool knitting products for infant aged 36
months and below.
2 Normative references
The following documents are essential to the application of this document. For
the dated documents, only the versions with the dates indicated are applicable
to this document; for the undated documents, only the latest version (including
all the amendments) is applicable to this standard.
GB/T 250 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Grey scale for assessing
change in color
GB/T 1335 (all parts) Standard sizing systems for garments
GB/T 2828.1-2012 Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes - Part 1:
Sampling schemes indexed by acceptance quality limit (AQL) for lot-by-lot
inspection
GB/T 2910 (all parts) Textiles - Quantitative chemical analysis
GB/T 3920 Textiles - Tests for color fastness - Color fastness to rubbing
GB/T 3922 Textiles - Testing method for color fastness to perspiration
GB/T 4802.3 Textiles - Determination of fabric propensity to surface fuzzing
and to pilling - Part 3: Pilling box method
GB/T 4841.3 Color cards of standard depths for dyeing with dyestuffs 2/1,
1/3, 1/6, 1/12, 1/25
GB/T 31713 Hygienic requirement for safety of antibacterial textiles
GB/T 38015 Textiles - Quantitative chemical analysis - Mixtures of elastane
and certain other fibers
FZ/T 01026 Textiles - Quantitative chemical analysis - Multi-component fiber
mixtures
FZ/T 01057 (all parts) Test method for identification of textile fibers
FZ/T 01101 Textile test method - Fiber content - Quantitative physical
analysis
FZ/T 01112 Textiles - quantitative chemical analysis - Mixture of silk and wool
or/and cashmere (formic acid / zinc chloride process)
FZ/T 20011-2006 Test method for determining the angle of spirality in knitted
wool garments
FZ/T 20018 Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in wool textiles
FZ/T 20031 Test method for seam elongation of wool knitted goods
FZ/T 20032 Test method for neck opening stretchability of wool knitted goods
FZ/T 30003 Method for quantitative analysis of ramie (flax hemp) cotton
blended textile - Micro projection
FZ/T 70008 Test method for cover factor of wool knitted fabrics
FZ/T 70009 Test method for relaxation dimensional change and felting
dimensional change to washing of wool textiles
GSB 16-2922 Standard sample photo of pilling of carded wool knitting goods
GSB 16-2923 Standard sample photo of pilling of combed wool knitting
goods
IWTO-66 Test method for the skin comfort of finished wool fabrics
3 Terms and definitions
The following terms and definitions apply to this document.
3.1
Boiled wool knitting goods
The wool knitting goods, for which a special felting process is carried out, in
order to achieve the structural density, which is required by the design.
4 Product classification
4.1 Divided by types:
- Cardigans, pullovers, vests;
- Pants, skirts;
- Coats, suits;
- Shirts;
- Underwear;
- Socks;
- Small pieces of clothing (including hats, scarves, gloves, etc.);
- Spliced clothing.
4.2 Divided by washing method:
- Dry cleaning;
- Hand washing with care;
- Machine washable.
5 Technical requirements
5.1 Safety requirements
The basic safety technical requirements for wool knitting goods shall meet the
requirements of GB 18401. The basic safety technical requirements for
children's products shall meet the requirements of GB 31701.
5.2 Grading requirements
5.2.1 Wool knitting goods products are divided into high-quality products, first-
grade products, qualified products.
5.2.2 The quality grade of wool knitting goods shall be comprehensively
assessed by the intrinsic quality and appearance quality, wherein the lowest
grade shall be used for grading.
6 Test method
6.1 Inspection of safety requirements
It is performed according to the items and test methods specified in GB 18401.
Children's products are implemented in accordance with the items and test
methods, which are specified in GB 31701.
6.2 Inspection of internal quality
6.2.1 Test of fiber content
It is performed according to GB/T 2910 (all parts), GB/T 16988, GB/T 38015,
FZ/T 01026, FZ/T 01057 (all parts), FZ/T 01101, FZ/T 01112, FZ/T 30003 and
so on.
6.2.2 Test of burst strength
It is performed according to GB/T 7742.1 or GB/T 7742.2. The test area adopts
7.3 cm2 (diameter 30.5 mm). The arbitration is carried out according to GB/T
7742.1.
6.2.3 Test of knitting density coefficient
It is performed according to FZ/T 70008.
6.2.4 Pilling test
It is performed according to GB/T 4802.3. The combed product is turned 14400
r, then it is graded according to the GSB 16-2923 Standard sample photo of
pilling of combed wool knitting goods. The carded product is turned 7200 r, then
it is graded according to the GSB 16-2922 Standard sample photo of pilling of
carded wool knitting goods.
6.2.5 Torsion angle test
It is performed according to FZ/T 20011-2006. The washing program is 1 × 7A.
6.2.6 Test of dichloromethane soluble substance
It is performed according to FZ/T 20018.
6.2.7 Test of alkylphenol and alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ether
It is performed according to GB/T 23322.
6.2.8 Test of size change rate after dry cleaning
6.2.8.1 It is performed according to GB/T 19981.2. Use special sensitive
material dry-cleaning program to wash once, without ironing. The specimen is
prepared according to FZ/T 70009.
6.2.8.2 Calculate the size change rate after dry cleaning, at each pair of marked
points, in the length direction and width direction of the specimen, respectively,
according to formula (1).
Where:
L - Size change rate after dry cleaning, %;
l1 - The size after washing, in millimeters (mm);
l0 - The original size before washing, in millimeters (mm).
6.2.8.3 The final result is the average size change rate after dry cleaning, in the
length direction, AND the average size change rate after dry cleaning, in the
width direction, accurate to 0.1%. Use the "+" sign to indicate elongation, the "-
" sign to indicate contraction.
6.2.9 Test of mass deviation rate of single piece
6.2.9.1 Spread flat the several samples taken (see 7.1.5), at a temperature of
(20 ± 2) °C and a relative humidity of (65 ± 4)%, for 24 hours. Then weigh them
piece by piece, accurate to 0.5 g. Calculate its average value, to get the initial
mass of a single finished product (m1).
6.2.9.2 Cut two specimens of moisture regain from one of the specimens, each
has a mass of not less than 10 g. Measure the actual moisture regain of the
specimen, according to GB/T 9995.
6.2.9.3 Calculate the official moisture regain mass of a single finished product,
according to formula (2), accurate to 0.1 g (the official moisture regain is
implemented in accordance with GB/T 9994).
Where:
m0 - The official moisture regain mass of a single finished product, in grams
(g);
m1 - The initial mass of a single finished product, in grams (g);
GB 18401, OR otherwise if children's products do not meet the requirements of
GB 31701, they will all be judged as unqualified.
7.2.3.2 According to the marked grades, if the intrinsic quality and appearance
quality are both qualified, the batch of products is qualified; if one of the intrinsic
quality and appearance quality is unqualified, the batch of products is
unqualified.
8 Acceptance rules
Where there is a dispute between the supplier and the buyer, due to the result
of the batch inspection, it can be re-inspected once. The re-inspection shall be
executed according to the rules of first inspection. The re-inspection result shall
prevail.
9 Packaging and marking
9.1 Packaging
The packaging of wool knitting goods is implemented in accordance with GB/T
4856.
9.2 Marking
9.2.1 The marking of each single piece of wool knitting goods shall be
implemented in accordance with GB/T 5296.4 and GB 18401, among which
children’s products shall be implemented in accordance with GB/T 5296.4 and
GB 31701.
9.2.2 Ordinary wool knitted garments use centimeter as the main specifications.
Tops are marked with bust; pants are marked with pants length; skirts are
marked with hip circumference. OR otherwise, it shall mark the number type
according to GB/T 1335 (all parts).
9.2.3 The wearable range of tight-fitting or fashionable wool knitted garments is
indicated in centimeters. For example, the top is marked with 95 ~ 105, which
means that the wearable range is 95 cm ~ 105 cm. OR otherwise, it shall mark
the number type according to GB/T 1335 (all parts).
9.2.4 Scarves are marked with their geometrical dimensions, such as
rectangular scarves. Shawls are marked with length × width (excluding ear
length). Triangular scarfs and shawls are marked with base length × height
(excluding ear length), expressed in centimeters.
9.2.5 Other products shall be marked with specifications and dimensions, in
Appendix A
(Normative)
Description of appearance defects
A.1 Yarn unevenness: Due to the uneven thickness of short segments of yarn,
the finished product will show cloud spots of different shades.
A.2 Thick and thin nodes: Due to the uneven thickness of yarn, the formation
of protruding horizontal strip, with large comb circles, on the finished product is
thick node; the formation of protruding horizontal strip, with small comb circles,
on the finished product is thin node.
A.3 Thick and thin places: The obvious thickness fragments on the finished
products, due to uneven yarn length segments and too large thickness
difference.
A.4 Color pattern: The difference of color deepness on the finished product,
due to the uneven color absorption of the raw material during dyeing.
A.5 Color boundary: On the garment piece, due to the different shades of color,
the boundary is formed.
A.6 Grass clippings, wool particles, wool chips: Grass clippings, wool
particles, wool chips and other impurities attached to the yarn, which affect the
appearance of the product.
A.7 Rough thread: Due to damage or burrs on the needle tongue or needle
tongue shaft, some loops are roughened during the knitting process.
A.8 Single hair: In knitting, part of the yarn (less than 1/2) in a loop is unhooked.
A.9 Flower thread: Due to equipment reasons, the occurrence of larger and
slightly protruding loops on the finished product; triangular thread (butterfly
thread): In a needle eye, two needle loops overlap, forming a triangular small
hole on the finished product; flat thread: The pattern on the finished product is
not prominent, such as thick flowers which are not thick and fish scales which
are not protruding.
A.10 Uneven loops: Due to poor knitting, the finished product has loops with
different loop sizes and tightness, tight needles, thin or dense loops, etc.
A.11 Exposed inner yarn: For interwoven fabrics, the inner yarn is exposed
and reflected on the face; uneven color mixing: Uneven mixing of fibers of
different colors.
......
Source: Above contents are excerpted from the PDF -- translated/reviewed by: www.chinesestandard.net / Wayne Zheng et al.
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